In this monthly series, I commit to cooking whatever is on the cover of Bon Appetit, Saveur or maybe some other food magazine. There’s a reason these particular dishes are on the cover – they’re usually the best recipes in the magazine.
Summer is here, and to me, summer means FRESH HERBS. Lots of them. In every meal. I actually haven’t even gotten my act together enough to plant all of the herbs I usually grow in pots and planters during the summer, but I’ll get there eventually. I do have a little chive plant which I gave a buzz-cut for this recipe. So I’m not a total herb deadbeat.
The June issue of Bon Appetit boasted a huge plate of the most herb-filled pasta I’d ever seen. I wanted to grab a fork and dive right in. But first, I had to Cook The Cover. Then…the pasta diving.
When I realized Bon Appetit wanted me to make a parsley pesto, I got a little scared. But then I remembered that parsley isn’t my arch nemesis anymore. For a long time, I seriously hated fresh parsley. And fresh mint. And fresh rosemary. All of these herbs, in their dried form, were just fine (probably because they have like 1/1000th of the flavor of fresh herbs). You know when you go to a Mediterranean restaurant, and everything comes with tabbouleh on the side? Yeah, fresh parsley and mint? Oh, the horror.
I’ve heard that your taste buds naturally change every 7 to 9 years. But I’ve learned that you can also train your taste buds with shock therapy. I taught myself to like olives by eating one every day for 6 months. Culinary school forced me to like fresh parsley. The first thing we did every morning when we came in was chop a huge pile of fresh parsley to set up our station for the day. Even if our dish didn’t involve parsley, we were required to chop it anyway, just in case. And it wasn’t just a rough chop. It was like a chop-this-parsley-until-it’s-dust chop. Leaning over a cutting board, breathing in parsley fumes for 10 minutes a day, every day, for 2 years, changed my taste buds. Shortly after I finished school, I found myself at my favorite Mediterranean restaurant, craving the tabbouleh more than anything on the menu. Shine on, you crazy taste buds.
Out of old habits, I still tempered this pasta with an herb I love more than parsley – basil! It also has all of the chives my little plant would yield, Parmesan cheese, a handful of toasted almonds, and some red pepper flakes for a little heat. And yes, there’s lemon zest and juice in there. Of course there is. This is a dish that seems sort of fancy, but if you have a food processor, it’s about the simplest thing you can make. The herby flavors of summer shine through in this lightly-dressed spaghetti.
adapted from Bon Appetit
- Kosher salt
- 8 ounces spaghetti
- 1/4 cup sliced almonds
- 2 cups packed fresh flat-leaf parsley (I didn’t even bother picking off the leaves, I used the stems too)
- 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus additional for garnish
- 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3. Transfer almonds to food processor and pulse until very finely chopped. Add remaining ingredients and process until smooth. Season pesto with salt to taste. Pesto can be used immediately or covered and refrigerated for up to 5 days.
- February 2013 Bon Appetit: Rigatoni with Spicy Calabrese-Style Pork Ragu
- March 2013 Bon Appetit: Thai Curry Chicken Noodle Soup
- April 2013 Bon Appetit: Fried Chicken Sandwiches with Pickle Coleslaw
- May 2013 Bon Appetit: Whole Grain Pancakes with Pineapple-Ginger Compote
- June 2013 Bon Appetit: Pasta with Herb-Almond Pesto
- July 2013 Bon Appetit: Sambal Chicken Skewers
- August 2013 Bon Appetit: True Mint Ice Cream
- September 2013 Saveur: Extra-Crispy Fried Chicken
- October 2013 Saveur: Hungarian-Style Stuffed Cabbage
- December 2013 Bon Appetit: (Luster-Dusted) Sour Cream-Nutmeg Sugar Cookies
- January 2014 Bon Appetit: Spicy Pork & Mustard Green Soup
- February 2014 Bon Appetit: Chicken & Dumplings with Mushrooms